Discover St. John USVI: An Unforgettable Journey Through Its National Park, Pristine Beaches, and Exquisite Dining at ZoZo’s

Are you yearning for an escape to a place where the waters shimmer with an almost unbelievable brilliance, a spectrum of blues and greens that defy description? Look no further than the enchanting U.S. Virgin Islands in the heart of the Caribbean! During a memorable spring break vacation to St. Thomas, our quest for unparalleled natural beauty led us on a delightful 20-minute ferry ride to the serene island of St. John. This gem is largely preserved as a protected national park, offering an unspoiled paradise for all who visit.

Upon arrival, we embarked on a unique adventure aboard an open-air safari shuttle. For just $25.00 per person, this proved to be an invaluable investment, granting us access to some of the most breathtaking bays and panoramic vistas found anywhere on Earth. What an absolute feast for the eyes and soul!

It’s truly challenging – indeed, it feels almost impossible – to adequately convey the mesmerizing hues of the Caribbean Sea surrounding the compact yet magnificent island of St. John. The water’s clarity and vibrant coloration are unlike anything we had ever witnessed, a natural masterpiece that photographs can only begin to capture.

Exploring the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park on St. John

Mindful of our limited time on the island and our desire to remain fresh for a special dinner, we opted for a comprehensive, albeit expedited, tour of the national park. Our initial plan for an hour-and-a-half safari shuttle excursion quickly transformed into a generous, nearly three-hour journey thanks to our exceptionally knowledgeable driver and tour guide. This extended exploration allowed us to delve deeper into the island’s natural wonders without the rush, making every moment count.

A typical ‘open-air’ taxi shuttle in the Virgin Islands – our ride was truly a high-end, luxurious experience!

Our driver skillfully navigated St. John’s famously steep, winding, and narrow roads, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the spectacle unfolding around us. We spent our time gazing, marveling, and capturing countless memorable photographs. The experience was truly worth every penny of the $25.00 fee. While I regret not noting our driver’s name to offer a personal recommendation, his expertise and passion for the island were evident throughout the tour, making it an unforgettable part of our St. John adventure.

The Essential Visitor’s Center Stop

One of the initial and most crucial stops on our tour was the National Park Visitor’s Center. This isn’t just a place to gather information; it’s a vital spot for a “potty break” – a hint that facilities might be scarce later in the park! For those collecting stamps for visiting U.S. National Parks, this is your prime opportunity. Beyond practicalities, the center offers an array of cute t-shirts, insightful books, and charming local merchandise. What particularly captured our attention was an intricate 3-D topographical overview of St. John and the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park. This detailed model vividly illustrated the island’s diverse landscapes, from its highest peaks to its deepest bays.

Gazing at this comprehensive overview, it became clear that a single trip, especially a day visit, is simply insufficient to fully appreciate the profound beauty and extensive offerings of this remarkable island and national park. The sheer scale and untouched splendor convinced us that a return visit is not just desired, but essential. For our next adventure to St. John, we are already planning a minimum stay of two full days, allowing ample time to explore at a more leisurely pace.

To prepare for a deeper immersion into St. John’s aquatic wonders, we’re currently taking scuba diving lessons. This will undoubtedly enhance our future visits, enabling us to explore the vibrant underwater ecosystems of St. John and other Caribbean islands more fully.

For travelers who, like us, find the prospect of staying at luxurious resorts such as the Ritz or Westin on St. John a bit out of reach, there are wonderful alternatives. Renting charming cottages on the public beaches offers a fantastic way to experience the island’s serene beauty without breaking the bank. This is precisely what we envision for our next visit! In our humble opinion, there’s nothing quite as appealing as a quaint cottage, especially when your days will be filled with snorkeling, scuba diving, or simply relaxing on St. John’s stunning, pristine white-sand beaches.

The Scenic Drive and Iconic Bays of St. John

After a brief but informative stop at the Visitor’s Center, our adventure continued as our driver expertly navigated the incredibly steep, narrow, bumpy, and winding roads that ascend into St. John’s verdant hills. This journey offered a thrilling and immersive way to experience one of the United States’ most cherished natural parks, revealing breathtaking vistas at every turn.

Each stop, every curve of the road on our safari shuttle tour revealed something simply amazing. The sheer beauty of St. John’s bays, particularly the renowned Trunk Bay with its iconic turquoise waters and pristine sands, is almost indescribable. It’s a natural environmental gift that inspires awe and gratitude, prompting a silent prayer that we, as visitors and global citizens, continue to care for and protect it for countless generations to come.

While much of St. John is dedicated to the national park, pockets of development exist, showcasing magnificent, multi-million-dollar homes perched along the hillsides, offering unparalleled views of the Caribbean Sea. Living on this extremely exclusive island comes with a significant cost. Everything, apart from a few locally grown fruits, must be shipped in, contributing to a high cost of living. If you’ve ever considered Hawaii to be an expensive place to reside, the U.S. Virgin Islands, including St. John, certainly stand on par in terms of their elevated price tags.

A Culinary Gem: Dining at ZoZo’s on St. John

As our captivating tour of the St. John National Park drew to a close, our journey took us towards Caneel Bay and our much-anticipated dinner reservation at ZoZo’s. Join us as we recount the exquisite culinary experience that awaits you, should you choose to visit and dine on St. John!

After being dropped off, my husband gently escorted my 88-year-old mother up yet another series of the seemingly endless steep mountain stairs leading to ZoZo’s. Our path wound past the evocative remains of an old sugar mill, a poignant reminder of the island’s rich history and a once-prominent industry in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Nestled amidst a stunning tropical landscape, adorned with intricate stonework, swaying palm trees, and cooled by gentle trade winds, ZoZo’s offers a warm and inviting welcome to its guests.

True to the island’s architectural heritage and its historic buildings, ZoZo’s incorporates beautiful stonework, aged brick, and natural coral in its construction and accents. This dedication to authentic local design creates an ambiance that feels deeply rooted in St. John’s unique character.

Our evening at ZoZo’s began with the gentle fall of soft tropical sprinkles, which continued throughout our dinner. As the evening progressed, these light showers intensified into heavier tropical rainfalls. Surprisingly, we found ourselves needing to ask our server to lower the protective ‘wall’ tarps to shield us from the increasing wetness. To our dismay, the server seemed unsure how to operate them, and consequently, we ended up quite damp. While the rain certainly didn’t dampen our spirits or the overall experience, it was a minor point of disappointment in what we considered to be a high-end restaurant.

Another small hiccup was having to specifically request butter, and then olive oil with balsamic vinegar, to accompany the delightful hot bread. However, once the oil and vinegar arrived, topped with freshly grated Parmigiano, it proved to be an incredibly delicious accompaniment.

Appetizers and Salads at ZoZo’s

Our culinary journey began with strong, rum-based Caribbean specialty cocktails, which perfectly set the mood. For appetizers, we selected some truly outstanding options. One highlight was the Filet Mignon Meatball, served with Garlic Crostini and Smoked Cherry Tomato Fra Diavolo. Priced at $18.00, it was indeed on the pricier side, but the depth of flavor and quality made it seriously delicious and well worth the indulgence.

Another intriguing choice was the black squid ink linguine appetizer, offering a unique and authentic taste of the Caribbean’s rich seafood offerings. Its vibrant color and distinct flavor made it a memorable start to the meal.

Following our appetizers, we moved on to salads. One delightful, albeit pricey at $17.00, option was a refreshing medley of Diced Watermelon, Local Pineapple, Cucumber, Arugula, Shaved Fennel, Feta Cheese, all brought together with a unique Fresh Basil Vanilla Vinaigrette. The combination of sweet, savory, and herbaceous flavors was simply exquisite.

We also sampled a more traditional Mesclun Salad, which featured a Raspberry Vinaigrette and delicate slices of orange (a Balsamico Vinaigrette was also an option). While fresh, its $17.00 price point felt a little steep for what was essentially a modest cup of lettuce with a small amount of fruit.

ZoZo’s Exquisite Main Courses and Desserts

For our main courses, we indulged in a selection of ZoZo’s finest. Swordfish is a perennial favorite of ours, and this rendition did not disappoint. Priced at $42.00, the Swordfish was generously portioned and exquisitely prepared with a Citrus Marinade, a delicate Sun-Dried Tomato Glaze, and served alongside a Toasted Orzo Salad, tender Brussels Sprouts, and a flavorful Mango Chili Brodo. The accompanying bed of orzo and brown rice was a perfect complement to the succulent fish.

The Red Snapper entree, also priced at $42.00, was a testament to the chef’s creativity and innovation. Its fresh flavors and thoughtful presentation made it a highly recommended choice for seafood lovers.

The Veal Osso Buco with Risotto alla Milanese (infused with Saffron) and Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus was truly to die for!

Without a doubt, the Veal Osso Buco was sublime. Priced at $44.00, this generous portion was easily a meal for two, and we happily took half back to our room to savor as an awesome lunch the following day. Given that this was a premium veal osso buco, we felt it was absolutely worth the splurge. Hands-down, we had no regrets about this choice – it was a standout dish that truly encapsulated the exquisite dining experience at ZoZo’s.

For dessert, we indulged in an incredibly unique “mango cobbler” served with homemade ice cream. This tropical delight was so yummy, its vibrant flavors perfectly capturing the essence of the Caribbean. Unfortunately, the low light conditions made it impossible to capture a photograph that would do it justice. So, we invite you to simply imagine the exquisite taste of the freshest, most tropical mango cobbler you could ever enjoy, found only in a true tropical paradise like St. John. Yes, it was utterly delicious and entirely worth every single extra calorie!

Dining at ZoZo’s is undeniably an expensive splurge for any U.S. Virgin Islands vacation. However, this is precisely how we choose to “vacay”! We meticulously save our hard-earned pennies to treat ourselves to wonderful, unique dining experiences that stand apart from our ordinary, daily lives. While some travelers prioritize excursions and activities, as we’ve grown older, we’ve come to increasingly appreciate the value of simple, quiet, and profoundly satisfying experiences shared together.

ZoZo’s promises not to disappoint those who seek a tranquil dining atmosphere coupled with delicious, thoughtfully prepared options while visiting St. John. It’s an experience that truly elevates a Caribbean getaway.

Up Next: A Room With A View

Stay tuned for our next article, where we’ll reveal our highest recommendations for what we consider to be our absolute best dining experience in the U.S. Virgin Islands: “A Room With A View!”