Unveiling Milan’s Artistic Heart: A Journey to Leonardo’s Last Supper and Beyond

Our recent three-week Italian adventure began with an unforgettable stop in Milan, Italy’s vibrant northern jewel. From the moment we arrived, Milan captivated us with its dynamic energy, remarkable cleanliness, and an elegant fusion of historical grandeur and contemporary flair. This city, often overshadowed by popular destinations like Rome, Florence, and Venice, proved to be an absolute “WOW!” factor, leaving an indelible impression on us as one of the most impeccably kept cities we encountered in Italy, alongside the charming Modena.

It’s truly a missed opportunity for travelers who choose to bypass Milan. As the global capital of fashion and design, Milan offers far more than just high-end boutiques. It exudes a sophisticated charm that, when explored at a leisurely pace, reveals a rich tapestry of art, history, and culture. Here, ancient cathedrals stand proudly amidst modern skyscrapers, symbolizing a city that seamlessly blends its illustrious past with a forward-thinking vision. Our three-day visit was filled with extraordinary experiences, starting with one of the most iconic artworks in human history: Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.”

An Exclusive Encounter with Leonardo da Vinci’s Masterpiece

Upon settling into our hotel, our first priority was an eagerly anticipated visit to Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper.” We had the incredible opportunity to participate in an ‘after-hours’ tour, a truly unique experience that allowed us an entire hour to admire the fresco. This exclusive viewing included a comprehensive mini-lecture detailing the fresco’s history, Leonardo’s groundbreaking painting techniques, and the significant role of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Historically, in the old city-states of Italy before the nation’s unification in the 1800s, it was a common tradition for wealthy aristocratic families to commission and build their own churches and places of worship. We owe immense gratitude to these affluent patrons, whose financial capabilities enabled them to commission masterpieces from legendary artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. Their patronage not only beautified these sacred spaces but also preserved invaluable artistic and cultural heritage for future generations.

Unlike the bustling crowds and strict 20-minute viewing limits during regular hours, our small, quiet ‘after-hours’ group provided an unparalleled sense of intimacy with the artwork. This privileged access meant we could truly linger, absorb every detail, and capture photographs and videos without the rush, provided we refrained from using flash – a crucial measure to protect the delicate fresco. While my DSLR camera remained packed away in favor of lighter travel, my iPhone still managed to capture the essence of this magnificent work, despite a slight blurriness compared to professional equipment. It was a small, worthwhile compromise for the convenience of traveling light.

The Sacred Setting: Santa Maria delle Grazie

Leonardo’s iconic masterpiece is not just painted on any wall; it adorns the northern wall of the former dining hall, or refectory, of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. This church stands as one of the most significant sites of Renaissance art, a powerful testament to human creative genius. Its importance was officially recognized in 1980 when it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The church served as the primary place of worship for the influential Sforza family of Milan, who famously commissioned Leonardo to create “The Last Supper” fresco. Today, Santa Maria delle Grazie is revered globally, housing a masterpiece that remains one of the most recognized and appreciated artworks in the world. It proudly holds the distinction of containing a singular Renaissance fresco of its kind that is still visible and accessible to the public, offering a rare window into the artistic innovations of its era.

A close-up view of the famous fresco reveals the inevitable fading and damage it has sustained since its creation in the late 1400s.

Remember: This monumental work was painted on a wall over 600 years ago!

Tragically, a doorway was later constructed beneath the figure of Jesus, which was subsequently filled in with concrete during later interventions. Observe Leonardo’s brilliant composition: the apostles are arranged in four distinct groups of three, a subtle yet profound nod to the Holy Trinity. Each figure is rendered with astonishing movement and deeply expressive emotions, a revolutionary approach introduced by Leonardo during the Renaissance. Prior to this period, artists rarely depicted such vivid emotional expression in their subjects. The apostles’ faces convey a spectrum of emotions, from shock to profound wonder, as they grapple with Jesus’s statement: “one of you will betray me.” Judas, easily identifiable, is the third person to Jesus’s left (when viewing the fresco), characterized by his darker complexion, blue and green robe, and the small brown bag he clutches – possibly containing the thirty pieces of silver.

The painting’s central theme is drawn directly from the Gospel of John, capturing the dramatic moment when Jesus announces that one of his own apostles will betray him, forever altering the course of history.

The Magnificent Crucifixion Fresco

Across the refectory, at the opposite end from “The Last Supper,” lies another extraordinary fresco depicting the Crucifixion, painted by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano in 1495. This breathtaking work, though often overshadowed by its more famous counterpart, is a masterpiece in its own right, offering a powerful and equally moving visual narrative that commands profound reverence and contemplation.

A Miraculous Survival: The Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie During WWII

The history of Santa Maria delle Grazie is also marked by a harrowing chapter during World War II. In 1943, the church and its adjacent convent suffered severe damage from Allied bombings. Milan was an early target due to its significance as the birthplace of Mussolini’s fascist movement, making it a strategic objective for bombing campaigns. Miraculously, however, only a few of the structure’s walls survived the onslaught. Among these were the walls of the Refectory (dining hall), which had been prudently reinforced with sandbags by the resilient Milanese people in anticipation of the attacks.

It is nothing short of miraculous that both “The Last Supper” and “The Crucifixion” frescoes within the dining hall remained intact amidst such widespread destruction. This preservation stands as a profound testament not only to the foresight of those who protected them but also to the enduring power and cultural value of these iconic works of art, which narrowly escaped oblivion. The scars of war are still visible in parts of the church, serving as a poignant reminder of its turbulent past and its astonishing resilience.

The Enduring Beauty of Santa Maria delle Grazie

Beyond its invaluable interior, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie presents a strikingly beautiful brick exterior, showcasing the elegant architectural styles of the Renaissance era. Its robust and intricate facade hints at the artistic treasures held within, inviting visitors to appreciate its historical grandeur even before stepping inside. The surrounding grounds provide a peaceful atmosphere, a quiet contrast to the bustling city life just beyond its walls. It’s a place that truly transports you back in time, allowing a glimpse into Milan’s profound artistic and spiritual legacy.

Below is a brief video offering a panoramic view of the dining hall, providing a glimpse into this historic space from all four sides. ENJOY!

The last wall shown in the video is completely white, a modern reconstruction built after the structure was bombed in WWII. This stark contrast highlights the miraculous preservation of the two ancient frescoes.

Delving Deeper into Leonardo da Vinci

For those inspired to learn more about the extraordinary life and works of Leonardo da Vinci, please click on this link: Leonardo da Vinci. Explore his diverse talents as an artist, scientist, inventor, and thinker, whose legacy continues to shape our understanding of art and innovation.